HST Creative

HST is an agency for that specialises in the creative industry. Hilary and Satish Tailor (founders) work on product design, trend and colour direction. The company has worked with brands such as such as Mapel, Adidas, Puma, PantoneView, Clarks and Umbro

Before HST Creative, Hillary has gained experience from many companies such as IFF (International Flavours & Fragrances), Lynx, Adidas, Puma and View 2. During her career, she has had experience with creating mood boards and concepts for packaging; focus groups for rebranding, which involved bringing male teens to participate in using her previous companies products to get feedback. She has also worked on colour trends for companies who had limited knowledge in this area, as well as helping them to visualise the product in different colourways, thus aiding sales. Furthermore Hilary's past jobs consisted of communicating the brand and its story behind specific themes; she has organised photoshoots and booked models; worked with other companies during a joint venture (such as marketing a bike with Vexed Generation and Biomega).

Vexed Generation folding bike concept
To prevent bikes from being stolen

Vexed Generation concealed bag

Hillary worked at View2 do other publications such as View Textiles, ViewPoint, View Publications and PantoneView. Pantone view has a specific style to their publications subsisting of a simple format, inspirational imagery and a clear concept whilst making the book apply to different creative industries.

View2 Magazine
Issue 18

The job entailed working with a team, but writing a story for the selected colours for that season separately until they came together to see each person's story. After 2 days of presenting ideas, the person selected had to create the trend book. It had to consist of a macro trend in order for it to be interpreted by creatives in different sectors. An example of a past project is "Eat".

The book contains:

• Heavy text at the front so readers can skip through if not interested
• The book has to explain why the colours have changed from last season
• Navigation through the book is crucial, therefore Page numbers and chapter names must be included on each page.
• A story with inspirational imagery
• A harmony page - colours that go together (useful for marketing so merchandising ideas can be formed)
• Product spread - Ideas for apparel, footwear, furniture in trending colours (also useful for merchandising) 
• Material pallet - Ideas for textures, fabrics with extra inspirational words that describe how silhouettes might look

How are colours predicted?

Hillary goes on to say they are partly to do with a self fulfilling prophecy, which involves 2 points:

• Conspiracy - If someone has that colour then they must keep up with the trend
• Logic - People want to see new colours

An example of this is - Pantone release a new set of neon colours because of the fact the dyes used to produce the colours were banned from the EU, but manufacturers found a way to produce approved dyes. This is a means of exploiting new colours that have become available to the market.

HST Creative Clients

Firstly HST ask their client how they would like their product to be delivered - in book form or digitally. They then discuss a job list which resembles a checklist of what the client wants exactly. This can then form as proof if the client asks for more services later down the line which they have not paid for. For this, a critical path is made, which acts like a calendar with mini deadlines. This keeps HST on track with the project, and can ask the client  at every deadline if they are satisfied with the progress. HST research the company to see what their customers want from their client, in order to modify the brands ethos/image if needed. In addition, they research consumers in other countries (if this is applicable to them) to see how the quality of their economy. This could effect how other countries buy from the client. HST look at the client's competitors to see who they do and do not want to aspire to be. Technological research is made to see if this could effect the way the client manufacture their products.

Hillary concludes the talk with how she uses the world around her to create new trends:

• She researches a lot
• Listens to the news frequently
• Reads the newspaper - "The Week" and other publications
• Looks at design blogs
• Keeps in touch with friends

IP: Intellectual Property

ACID's legal affiliate presented the importance of protecting intellectual property rights. ACID explained how to avoid having property copied or being accused of copying an individual's work.

Intellectual Property Rights

Copyright for 2D designs (UK):

This covers paintings, drawings, fabrics, diagrams, and photographs. All work must be original and the individual has to prove they have used their own skill to produce the item. Once the item  has been audio or physically recorded, the right is automatically created, thus there is no need for formalities. This right is then in the name of the creator or  their employer. It is important to know that a record of the idea should be made before discussing it with anyone, otherwise it is very difficult for lawyers to determine who made the original. This copyright last for life, plus 25 to 70 year after the individual passes away.

Copyright for 3D designs (UK):

This copyright is the same as the Copyright for 2D designs, except the items it covers are (in the loose term) sculptures, works of architecture and works of artistic craftsmanship.

Unregistered Design Rights (UK):

This right protects furniture, interior accessories, lighting designs etc. 2D designs are not covered in this right, unlike Copyright for 2D designs. Designs must be original and must not copy designs even if they are considered to be "commonplace". There is no need for formalities, and designs are protects up to 15 years at the end of the first year the product is made, but not marketed, or 10 year at the end of the first year the product has been put on the market. This allows the individual to test the market. Anyone can copy the original in the last 5 years of the protection, but must pay the owner in royalties. Copyists will be penalised if only slight changes were made.

Registered Design Rights (UK):
The protection covers the appearance of the product, unlike the Unregistered Deign Rights. Shape, contours, lines, colours, texture of the product or ornamentation are protected. The design is only liable for registration if it has not been on the market for more than one year. The design must be original and copyists will be penalised if the product creates the same impression as the original. Unlike Copyright and Unregistered Design Rights, there is no need to provide evidence of copying a design. This means the owner has full monopoly over the design. Once the design is registered, it is protected for 25 year, and can be renewed every 5 year after registration.

Trademark:
In order for the design to be liable for registration, the goods or services must show how theirs differs from that of other other businesses and companies. The trademark shows that the owner had registered that item.

Patent:
This protects inventions and allows the owner to the right to manufacture use and sell a product of the invention. For the invention to be patented, it must follow 2 rules:

• Novelty - It must never be acknowledged by anyone prior its patent application date.

• Inventive step - It must have obvious adjustments to something that has already been invented.

Patents are very expensive - The individual must consider the pros and cons of applying for a patent.

Fees:

To register something in the EU costs €350 and £60 in the UK, however this registration only covers the specific countries. If the owner went to the US, for instance, they would not be covered as other countries have different regulations in IP rights.

How to define a copying infringement of a design:

There is no percentage of similarity to penalise someone for copying a design. In order for IP lawyers to determine a copyist, they consider these points:

• What stands out?
• How many replicas have been made compared to the original and the copy?
• Has the concept itself been copied?
• Is the design novel enough?

This seems to rely on subjective analysis and reveals many grey areas when determining a copyist.

To avoid being copied, create an audit trail or record each stage of progression without overwriting it in order to see how the individual achieved the outcome.

When involving lawyers, it is important to consider whether the case worth the money - How likely will the individual win the case and will it pay for itself?

The law of passing off

This applies to people like celebrities, who have a reputation and merchandise which comes from an unofficial source. If the merchandise is unofficial, it could be argued that people may become conduced as to whether this item is official or not. This could potentially effect a brand or celebrity's reputation.

ACID Marketplace

It is the UK's first design exchange website. Individuals with an account can control who can access sight to their concept or project they have uploaded. This then allows the individual to identify who has seen the concept, thus recognising any copyists.

Fabrics and Fibres

The presentation today forced on the importance of being learned in fabrics and fibres. It covered the basis, which were revised, since one had previous knowledge on this subject.

In order to stretch this knowledge, there were example of fabric samples on display, which were further researched. The companies listed below seemed the most interesting to research:

Schoeller-Eschler

This company create smart and technical fabrics such as Pyroshell, c_change and Corkshell.

Technical textile definition:

A modified material which performs a specific function.

Smart textile definition:

A material which reacts to its environment without human interaction.

Pyroshell

It is a technical textile which is heat and flame proof and assembled using 3 layers. It is made from polyamide and polyester and designed for safety personels; railway workers; police officers and electricians. Its properties are breathable, light, tear resistant, and has elasticity.

c_change  

This smart fabric reacts to different temperatures and activities - When there is too much moisture, the fabric membrane opens to allow excess heat and water vapour escape. When the body cool, the membrane closes again. Its objective is to maintain a constant body temperature and is inspired by a pine cone! Especially ideal for sportswear.

Corkshell 

Provides breathable and comfortable thermal insulation. It is soft and lightweight  and helps to maintain moisture and prevent body odour. Possible uses for outside and active wear. 

The British Millerain

This company specialises primarily in waxed cotton in vintage styles. 

• Cotton is a natural fibre and comes from the cotton seed

• It is a staple fibre meaning it has a limited length

• Examples of cotton fabrics are:
• calico
• denim
• poplin
• drill
• velvet

• Examples of what cotton is used for:
• shirts
• underwear
• bath towels
• jeans
• sewing threads

• Cotton can be boiled if white

• 40 to 60 degrees for coloured items

• Can be bleached

• Can be ironed up to 200 degrees

• It is not sensitive to solvents - can be dry cleaned with all normal solvents

• Can be tumbled dries with the exception of fabrics liable to shrinking 

• Creases badly

• Dries slowly

The British Millerain supplies many different variation of waxed fabrics such as:

Traditional Wax 

A collection of traditional wax fabrics. Waxed cottons will develop a unique appearance according to the wearers lifestyle, building a personal relationship with the garment.

Staywax (Driden)

Our Staywax (Driden) range offers the look and feel of a wax product with the convenience of machine washing. Available in a variety of brighter colours, the Staywax range offers greater freedom of design.

Royal Navy 

Originally used by the Navy for sails, bags and canvas baths.

Medical

The British Millerain range of Lifesafe® Medical fabrics play an important, though not always obvious, part in a modern medical environment.

They provide protection for mattresses, pressure relief to prevent and treat bed sores and they assist medical staff in patient handling.

As you would expect, fabrics for this market must meet demanding requirements; flame retardancy, treatment with anti-bacterial agents, repeated high temperature laundering.

More fabrics can be found on their website

The recommended care for their products consists of:

• Their tradition waxed fabrics cannot be washed or dry cleaned.
• Allow any mud or dirt to dry, then gently brush off with a soft, lint free, fabric pad. Sponge with cold water if needed.

• Always allow your garment to dry thoroughly after use in a cool, airy environment. Never pack away damp.

• Reproofing will maintain the weatherproof qualities and extend the garment’s life.

• Use only British Millerain wax dressing as some products are inferior and may reduce the garment's performance and life.

• Never use soap or solvents.

British Millerain Staywax® fabrics have been designed to be machine washable at 30ºC. The laundering process enhances the distressed appearance of the fabric, adding to the character of the garment. Staywax® fabrics can also be pressed using a cool iron which will reduce the distressing, partially restoring the original appearance. However, as your garment may contain fabrics and trims other than Staywax®, always follow the garment manufacturers care instructions.

LMA (Leandro Manuel Araújo, Lda)

This company produced knitted and synthetic fibre fabrics

Background info on knitted fabrics:

• Fibres are spun into yarns, yarns are knitted into fabrics

• Made by interlocking loops

• Weft knit loops are formed traversing across the with of the fabric

• Warp knit loops are formed by going along the length of the fabric

• Weft knits ladder whereas warp knits do not

• Weft knits car made by a single yarn, whereas warp knots require a full warp sheet

• Weft knits can be hand or machine made, whereas warp knots can only be machine made

• The weft is described as a "course" when explaining direction of knit

• The warp is described as a "wale" when explaining direction of knit

• Fabrics made from weft knits:
• underwear
• babywear
• socks and stockings
• jumpers and cardigans
• scarves
• sportswear

• Fabrics made from warp knits
• lingerie
• lace
• elastic linings
• bed clothes
• swimwear
• curtains

• Can be circular or flat knitted

Background info on synthetic fabrics:

• Synthetic fibres are made from petrochemicals

• Fabrics that are made from synthetic fibres:
• Elastane
• Acrylic
• Polyester
• Nylon

• Synthetic fibres can be continuos or cut into staple lengths

• Synthetic fibres go through a process called melt, wet or dry spinning depending on what variation of fibre it is

Background info on woven fabrics:

• Made by interleaving of two sets of yarns

• Yarns are woven in right angles

• Woven fabrics can be plain, twill or satin woven

• Woven fabrics are usually
• firm
• stable
• have low elasticity
• cut edges will fray

• Woven fabrics are usually made into:
• jackets and coats
• suits
• shits
• bed clothes
• drapes and coverings

LMA have created:

Warp knits:

Circular knits:

Woven fabrics:

Multi-Layer fabrics:

"Disobedient Objects" Presentation

This presentation consisted of the reviews for the exhibition "Disobedient Objects". Due to being in a group, there were different views on more than one display within the exhibition. In addition, the group decided on reviewing one of the same display, as well as a different display of their choice. The decision of reviewing one of the same display was to present how it could be analysed at more than one angle.

Here is a link to the group presentation

An improvement for the group presentation would be to examine the exhibition in the same style. For example, in an objective and academic style, rather than describing it by saying "when I" or "I thought".