The presentation today forced on the importance of being learned in fabrics and fibres. It covered the basis, which were revised, since one had previous knowledge on this subject.
In order to stretch this knowledge, there were example of fabric samples on display, which were further researched. The companies listed below seemed the most interesting to research:
Schoeller-Eschler
This company create smart and technical fabrics such as Pyroshell, c_change and Corkshell.
Technical textile definition:
A modified material which performs a specific function.
Smart textile definition:
A material which reacts to its environment without human interaction.
Pyroshell
It is a technical textile which is heat and flame proof and assembled using 3 layers. It is made from polyamide and polyester and designed for safety personels; railway workers; police officers and electricians. Its properties are breathable, light, tear resistant, and has elasticity.
c_change
This smart fabric reacts to different temperatures and activities - When there is too much moisture, the fabric membrane opens to allow excess heat and water vapour escape. When the body cool, the membrane closes again. Its objective is to maintain a constant body temperature and is inspired by a pine cone! Especially ideal for sportswear.
Corkshell
Provides breathable and comfortable thermal insulation. It is soft and lightweight and helps to maintain moisture and prevent body odour. Possible uses for outside and active wear.
The British Millerain
This company specialises primarily in waxed cotton in vintage styles.
- Cotton is a natural fibre and comes from the cotton seed
- It is a staple fibre meaning it has a limited length
- Examples of cotton fabrics are:
- calico
- denim
- poplin
- drill
- velvet
- Examples of what cotton is used for:
- shirts
- underwear
- bath towels
- jeans
- sewing threads
- Cotton can be boiled if white
- 40 to 60 degrees for coloured items
- Can be bleached
- Can be ironed up to 200 degrees
- It is not sensitive to solvents - can be dry cleaned with all normal solvents
- Can be tumbled dries with the exception of fabrics liable to shrinking
- Creases badly
- Dries slowly
The British Millerain supplies many different variation of waxed fabrics such as:
A collection of traditional wax fabrics. Waxed cottons will develop a unique appearance according to the wearers lifestyle, building a personal relationship with the garment.
Staywax (Driden)
Our Staywax (Driden) range offers the look and feel of a wax product with the convenience of machine washing. Available in a variety of brighter colours, the Staywax range offers greater freedom of design.
Originally used by the Navy for sails, bags and canvas baths.
Medical
The British Millerain range of Lifesafe® Medical fabrics play an important, though not always obvious, part in a modern medical environment.
They provide protection for mattresses, pressure relief to prevent and treat bed sores and they assist medical staff in patient handling.
As you would expect, fabrics for this market must meet demanding requirements; flame retardancy, treatment with anti-bacterial agents, repeated high temperature laundering.
More fabrics can be found on their website
The recommended care for their products consists of:
- Their tradition waxed fabrics cannot be washed or dry cleaned.
- Allow any mud or dirt to dry, then gently brush off with a soft, lint free, fabric pad. Sponge with cold water if needed.
- Always allow your garment to dry thoroughly after use in a cool, airy environment. Never pack away damp.
- Reproofing will maintain the weatherproof qualities and extend the garment’s life.
- Use only British Millerain wax dressing as some products are inferior and may reduce the garment's performance and life.
- Never use soap or solvents.
British Millerain Staywax® fabrics have been designed to be machine washable at 30ºC. The laundering process enhances the distressed appearance of the fabric, adding to the character of the garment. Staywax® fabrics can also be pressed using a cool iron which will reduce the distressing, partially restoring the original appearance. However, as your garment may contain fabrics and trims other than Staywax®, always follow the garment manufacturers care instructions.
LMA (Leandro Manuel Araújo, Lda)
This company produced knitted and synthetic fibre fabrics
Background info on knitted fabrics:
- Fibres are spun into yarns, yarns are knitted into fabrics
- Made by interlocking loops
- Weft knit loops are formed traversing across the with of the fabric
- Warp knit loops are formed by going along the length of the fabric
- Weft knits ladder whereas warp knits do not
- Weft knits car made by a single yarn, whereas warp knots require a full warp sheet
- Weft knits can be hand or machine made, whereas warp knots can only be machine made
- The weft is described as a "course" when explaining direction of knit
- The warp is described as a "wale" when explaining direction of knit
- Fabrics made from weft knits:
- underwear
- babywear
- socks and stockings
- jumpers and cardigans
- scarves
- sportswear
- Fabrics made from warp knits
- lingerie
- lace
- elastic linings
- bed clothes
- swimwear
- curtains
- Can be circular or flat knitted
Background info on synthetic fabrics:
- Synthetic fibres are made from petrochemicals
- Fabrics that are made from synthetic fibres:
- Elastane
- Acrylic
- Polyester
- Nylon
- Synthetic fibres can be continuos or cut into staple lengths
- Synthetic fibres go through a process called melt, wet or dry spinning depending on what variation of fibre it is
Background info on woven fabrics:
- Made by interleaving of two sets of yarns
- Yarns are woven in right angles
- Woven fabrics can be plain, twill or satin woven
- Woven fabrics are usually
- firm
- stable
- have low elasticity
- cut edges will fray
- Woven fabrics are usually made into:
- jackets and coats
- suits
- shits
- bed clothes
- drapes and coverings
LMA have created:
Warp knits:
Circular knits:
Woven fabrics:
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